Catching up

It has been a few days since our last post. We didn't have data service (expected) or WiFi (somewhat unexpected) in Lesotho, and limited WiFi in Durban. As a result, there is a lot to write about and I know I can't do it justice in one sitting.

We left Jo'burg around 8 on Saturday morning taking the N1 south toward Lesotho. It didn't take long to realize that the faulty AC in the car was not going to suffice. We ended up driving about an  hour or so out of our way to the Bloemfontein airport to get a different car. We crossed the border a while later and enjoyed seeing the capital city Maseru on our way through to Thaba Bosiu. We arrived at Mmelsi Lodge at 4:15 and quickly headed off to hike up the historic "Mountain at Night."

It was a short steep climb, made more difficult by the altitude, but it was a nice level walk up top. There we saw ruins dating back to about 1820, when Chief Moshoeshoe united the tribes and held off the invaders thus forming what eventually became the Kingdom of Lesotho. We also strolled around the royal cemetery and enjoyed the views in every direction. The sun was setting as we descended  (see photo). That night we had a decent diner at Mmelsi and retired to our small three person rondavel.

The next day we drove through the small university town of Roma before driving up the brand new, beautiful highway to Semonkong. I'm not sure I've ever climbed such steep mountains, and our poor little VW Polo rental could hardly make it. It was interesting seeing people walking up and down the road the whole way. We eventually reached a relatively level plain and the town of Semonkong  (Place of Smoke).

Semonkong is a bustling little village with rows of tin structure shops, dirt streets full of donkeys and horses, one larger store, a number of cinder block houses and pubs, and a soccer pitch where sheep graze.

The Garmin directed us one way to the lodge, but we soon encountered a large water puddle blocking the road, so I found another route - which also turned out to have a similar obstructive puddle. I called the lodge to ask if there was another way, and they ensured us that the only way to get there is through the puddle which two-wheel drive cars do all the time. The children on the fence laughing at us did not inspire confidence, but we forged ahead and found ourselves decending a very steep and rocky road down to the river-side lodge. We were sure the little VW would never get out.

Once there, we were shown to our lovely rondavels. Soon Barry and I set out on a walk to see the famous Maletsunyane Falls. Believe it or not it was about a 3.5 mile walk there, and it was one of the most interesting hikes I've ever been on: up to a mountain pass, across a large marshy field (see photo), down across a stream, past a small collection of houses, along a fence row, past some shepherds, and around a stand of pine trees. There we finally saw the falls, but we were not at a vantage point where we could see the bottom of the canyon. Quickly, we reversed course and made it back 3.5 miles to the lodge just in time for our abseil training.

We both had the opportunity to decend the 25 meter cliff behind the lodge three times to prepare for our big adventure the following day. We completed that just in time to take our donkey pub crawl through the village. (Yep.)

We (including Barry's mother) climbed onto donkeys and rode them up the rocky road to three of the pubs in the town. The first was very primitive, with a pool table, two sets of plastic tables and chiars, and quite possibly no electricity (see photo). The beer selection was limited but we had a Castle and the last Smirnoff Storm before heading to the next pub.

The second pub was busier, had beer coolers, a wider selection, and booths. We had some other South African beers there before moving on to the third pub. At this one, which had a few tables, a jukebox, and a TV, we sampled the Lesotho brand beer before riding the donkeys back down the hill.

After showers, we had a nice dinner at the lodge while it poured down rain. After dinner, I read a little before falling asleep with a fire in the fireplace. The next day was a big one; I hope to blog about that tomorrow!