Thursday, May 10, 2012

Well, that was Agra

After a long and interesting bus ride to Agra this morning, we visited the Red Fort. It was a huge fort of red sandstone which was, for a long time, the seat of the Indian government under Moghul rule. At least 5 kings ruled from here, including Shah Jahan who built the Taj Mahal as a mausoleum for his most beloved wife (who died giving birth to their 14th child).

This fort was the real deal: moat with crocodiles, drawbridge, elevated position, high walls, and windows for guns and canons. It includes several palaces and a military barracks, as well as gardens and courtyards.

There are beautiful views of the Taj from the Fort. Shah Jahan was eventually imprisoned by his son and housed in his deceased wife's former apartment, where he could sit on the balcony and look at the Taj daily.

Then we went to the Taj. Didn't really live up to my romantic expectations of what the experience would be. For starters, by the time we arrived the sky was so overcast that the Taj nearly blended in. Almost immediately a sand storm blew up and we rushed to the mausoleum in an attempt to get inside before the rain started. (Didn't make it.)

Tourists are not allowed to walk on the marble platform in shoes, so we were issued booties to slip over our shoes. Mine didn't fit, so I had to sit in the rain and take my shoes off to put on the booties. Have you ever walked on wet marble with little flat plastic soles on your feet? Not wise. I tried for a few minutes before realizing my socks were getting soaked and I would be much safer barefoot.

After I took off the booties and socks I ventured into the mausoleum. Big, annoying cattle call. Very pushy people jostled to get in the narrow doors while guards blew whistles to keep everyone moving. Inside, where the huge dim space is lit with a single bulb, we quickly circled the tombs which are hidden behind tall screens.

Back outside, the rain had stopped and the sky cleared a little, so we were able to get some decent pictures and enjoy some view of the Taj before leaving. Nice at the end, but not the tranquil or spiritual experience I had anticipated.

As I write this, we're on our way back to Delhi, driving through a much nastier sand storm. Just now stopping at McDonald's to see how they do burgers without beef.

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